I am often asked, “What beers are most comparable to fine wine?” My response is always, “What kind of fine wine?”  Indeed, for every style of wine, there is a corresponding style of beer. If someone asks me what beers resemble a fine red wine, I would definitely say Belgian Flanders ales.

Flanders Ales – The Burgundies of Belgium

Frequently referred to as the “Burgundies of Belgium,” Flanders ales are among the most wine-like of any beers in the world. In fact, their sister region in France is the Bourgogne (Burgundy) region. Aged for between six months and three years in oak casks in the presence of microorganisms like Lactobacillus and Pediococcus (bacteria), Acetobacters (vinegar) and Brettanomyces (wild yeast), Flanders ales have deep fruit essences and a tart acidity that gives them a unique flavor profile.

Rodenbach – The Flagship of Flanders Red Ales

Wine-like Complexity

Flanders ales tend to be very complex with distinct fruit flavors including cherry, plum, prune, raisin, raspberry, and orange. They typically derive vanilla, spice notes, and tannins from the oak vessels they are aged in – contributing to their wine-like character. Since hops and sourness do not complement each other, Flanders ales are light on hops – less than 10 IBUs. Alcoholic strength is generally 4% to 6% or slightly higher.

Blending for Consistency and Flavor

 

Like many fine wines, Flanders ales are often blended. Because sour beers tend to vary quite a bit from barrel to barrel, brewers will blend different casks together to produce a consistent “house flavor profile.” Older beers (up to three years old) are often blended with younger beers (as young as six months old) in order to make the older, more expensive beers go further. This was a technique Flemish brewers borrowed from English porter makers in the 19th Century and adapted to sour beer production.

Tasting beers for blending

West Flanders Red Ales

Flanders ales fall into two distinct camps. West Flanders Red ales are produced in the western part of Belgium, near Bruges.  They have a distinct lactic tartness, stone fruit flavors, a deep reddish-brown color, and enormous complexity. The best-known examples of Flanders Red ales are from Rodenbach, in the town of Roeselare. Other good Flanders Reds included Duchesse de Bourgogne, Vichtenaar, Cuvee des Jacobins Rouge and Monk’s Cafe.

West Flanders Red ales

East Flanders Brown Ales – “Oud Bruins”

 

East Flanders Brown Ale – sometimes referred to as “Oud Bruin” (Old Brown) – are also tart, but less so than their West Flanders cousins. They are maltier, deep brown in color, quite complex, and sometimes a bit higher in alcohol. Oftentimes, Flanders Brown ales are aged in stainless steel rather than oak, and lack the oak characteristics of their cousins to the west. The definitive example of an East Flanders Brown is Liefmans Goudenband. Others include Vander Ghinste Oud Bruin, Petrus Oud Bruin, and Brouwerij Van Honsebrouck Bacchus Flemish Brown.

East Flanders Brown Ales

Flanders-style American Sour Ales

 

Not surprisingly, with the popularity of sour beers on the rise in the United States, many craft breweries are taking on the challenge of producing Flanders-style ales. New Belgium, The Lost Abbey, Russian River, The Bruery, Odell’s, and a host of others are producing excellent – and quite authentic – versions of West and East Flanders ales. Look for that trend to continue for many years to come.

A note of caution: I have had a number of supposedly Flanders-style ales recently that were kettle-soured. These lacked the delicate character that is a hallmark of a true Belgian Flanders ale. I found them harsh, clumsy, and nearly undrinkable. Before you buy, look them up online to determine if they are true age-soured examples of the style.

Flanders-style ales from American craft breweries

Flemish Beer Cuisine

Belgian cuisine is, without question, some of the finest in Europe. While the French, Italians and Spanish like to cook with wine, the Belgians prefer to cook with beer. One of their most-loved dishes is Carbonnade Flamande – Flemish Beef Stew. The beer it’s made with? You guessed it! Flanders ale. Carbonnade is one of my all-time favorite Belgian dishes. There is a fair bit of debate over whether the beer to use should be a West Flanders Red or an East Flanders Brown; there are merits to both, and one of the best batches I ever made used a small bottle of each. Whichever beer you go with, once you try it, you’ll be hooked. Don’t forget to enjoy it with a nice glass of Flanders ale!

 

Flemish beef stew cooked in Flanders Brown ale

Carbonnade Flamande

Ingredients

  • (3) pounds chuck roast – cut into 1.5″ cubes
  • (2) 11.2 oz bottles OR (1) 750 ml bottle of Flanders Red or Brown ale
  • (4) slices bacon – diced
  • (3) onions (medium) – sliced thin
  • (4) cloves garlic – chopped
  • (4) Tablespoons olive oil
  • (3) Tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • (1.5) cups beef broth
  • (2) bay leaves
  • (4) sprigs fresh thyme
  • (1) Tablespoon whole grain mustard
  • (1) Tablespoon dark brown sugar
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • (1) cup chopped parsley plus more for garnish

Preparation

  • Marinate the beef for at least two hours or overnight in the beer, garlic, 1/4 teaspoon salt and the bay leaves.
  • Remove the beer and pat dry with paper towels. Reserve the marinade.
  • Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven and, working in batches, brown beef on all sides. Set aside.
  • In the same Dutch oven, fry bacon until crisp and golden. Set aside with the beef.
  • Lower heat and fry onions in bacon grease until caramelized – about 20 minutes.
  • Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until flour is browned.
  • Add the beef broth and scrape the brown bits from the bottom of the pan.
  • Add the marinade, the beef, the bacon and the thyme.
  • Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 1.5 hours.
  • Add the brown sugar, the parsley, the mustard and freshly ground pepper. Cook for another 30 minutes.
  • Sprinkle with fresh parsley and serve with buttered egg noodles or French fries and a bottle of Flanders ale. Heaven!

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